With 30 spectacular reefs just off St. Thomas, the U.S. Virgin Islands have been rated one of the most beautiful areas in the world for scuba diving and snorkeling by Skin Diver magazine. For snorkeling, we like the waters off Coki Point, on the northeast shore of St. Thomas; especially enticing are the coral ledges near Coral World's underwater tower. Magens Bay also has great snorkeling year-round.
The best dive site off St. Thomas, especially for novices, is Cow and Calf Rocks, off the southeast end (45 minutes from Charlotte Amalie by boat); here you'll discover a network of coral tunnels riddled with caves, reefs, and ancient boulders encrusted with coral. The Cartanser Sr., a sunken World War II cargo ship that lies in about 35 feet of water, is beautifully encrusted with coral and now home to myriad colorful resident fish. Another popular wreck dive is the Maj. General Rogers, the stripped-down hull of a former Coast Guard cutter.
Experienced divers may want to dive at exposed sheer rock pinnacles like Sail Rock and French Cap Pinnacle, which are encrusted with hard and soft corals and frequented by lobsters and green and hawksbill turtles. They are also exposed to open-ocean currents that can make these very challenging dives.
St. Thomas Diving Club, 7147 Bolongo Bay (tel. 877/LETTSDIVE or 340/776-2381), is a full-service, PADI five-star IDC center, the best on the island. An open-water certification course, including four scuba dives, costs $385. An advanced open-water certification course, including five dives that can be accomplished in 2 days, goes for $275. On request, participants are taken on an all-day scuba excursion that includes a two-tank dive to the wreck of the HMS Rhone in the British Virgin Islands; the trip costs $130. A scuba tour of the 350-foot wreck of the Witshoal is offered every Saturday for experienced divers only; the cost is $88. You can also enjoy local snorkeling for $35.
DIVE IN!, in the Sapphire Beach Resort and Marina, Smith Bay Road, Route 36 (tel. 800/524-2090 or 340/777-5255), is a well-recommended, complete diving center that offers some of the finest services in the U.S. Virgin Islands, including professional instruction (beginner to advanced), daily beach and boat dives, custom dive packages, snorkeling trips, and a full-service PADI dive center. An introductory course costs $65, with a one-tank dive going for $62, two-tank dives for $75. A six-dive pass costs $203.
A Thrilling Dive for Non-Divers--Virgin Islands Snuba Excursions (tel. 340/693-8063; http://visnuba.com) are ideal for beginning swimmers. These special excursions are offered both at Coral World on St. Thomas and Trunk Bay on St. John. With Snuba's equipment, even novices can breathe easily underwater without the use of heavy restrictive dive gear. The Snuba operations begin in waist-deep shallow water and make a gradual descent to a depth of 20 feet. It's fun for the entire family from ages 8 and up, and no snorkeling or scuba experience is needed. Most orientation and guided underwater tours take 1 1/2 hours, costing $57 per person on St. John. On St. Thomas, a pass to Coral World is included, and the rate is $59 for adults and $57 for children under 12.
